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See my article on the Cartier Rotonde Flying Tourbillon Skeleton watch here at Haute Living.

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Via World Tempus (in French).

DWATCH 1000m Diving Watch Review

DWATCH 1000m Diving Watch Review

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Different automatic watches each have different winding requirements. Some need more or less winding, and most watches wind with the rotor moving either clockwise or counter-clockwise. A few watches have rotors that wind in both directions. You can go to Orbita's website for a "Watch Database" that has an impressive list of watches and is updated frequently. You can go there to determine what type of winding your watch needs. Most of the time you can tell for yourself what direction the rotor of your watch winds in, but only if you have an exhibition caseback. Turn the watch in both directions. The direction where the rotor seems to move with a bit more resistance is the direction it needs to spin to wind. There is a lever switch on the Futura that controls the direction of winding. There is also a switch to control the amount of turns per day (TPD). The daily turns are indicated in the left hand LCD display, and starts counting at midnight. It then resets itself. This display is also used for various setting when you need to make adjustments to the unit. The right LCD display is for the time. This is good for a few reasons. Mostly to assist with the TPD counter as well as provide you with a reference to determine how accurate your watch is and to adjust the time if needed. I think that more watch winders should have built in clocks. I like this. Having the unit in my display case gives me a handy clock to go to when I need to adjust watches. The clock can further be set to 12 or 24 hour time.

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The images you see here were taken mostly at Baselworld 2009 and show how three master watch makers who collaborated for the Maitres du Temps Chapter Two watch actually "collaborate." Daniel Roth, Roger Dubuis, and Peter Speake-Marin are all part of the resulting Chapter Two watch for example. The first image show them with Maitres du Temps founder Steven Holtzman together. The little watch on the table there, that is the Chapter Two (most likely). Not exactly the best lighting or focus for the watch - but you get the idea.

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The TX Perpetual Weekly Calendar watch shines most when placed on your wrist. It feel right, and the curved lugs keep the watch from looking too big on any wrist - even my smaller wrists. You can see the classic look enhanced by the modern dial is style you haven't seen before. My feeling is that in addition to those of you who enjoy this watch yourselves, this watch would make the perfect gift for those guys that wouldn't necessarily buy a watch by themselves, but sorely need an upgrade or replacement. You know who I am talking about... The TX Perpetual Weekly Calendar watch line ranges in retail value from 0 - 5.

The two timezones are convenient. You will use this function often if, for instance, you have family in a different timezone or if you are a frequent flier. The 24 hour dial would also be convenient in outer space where sunshine does not determine whether it is day or night and the strong photo-luminescence of the hands and markers gives a clear view of both times in all light conditions. Keep this in mind for your next intergalactic sojourn. More important is that the distinct GMT function gives the BR-01 93 an attractive style that conforms to Bell & Ross' credo to never compromise function for the sake of design.

As a limited edition the three watches in the Superocean Heritage Chronograph Limited Edition collection are meant to celebrate the 125th anniversary of Breitling. A small touch that is hard to notice in the images is that the Breitling "B" is done in 18k gold, located above the name at 12 o'clock. The watch is still 46mm wide and 200 meters water resistant, and the crystal is double AR coated and sapphire. I still like the minimalist rotating bezel.  Lastly, nothing new for the bracelet or strap. Still the "port hole" rubber strap of the vintage style mesh metal bracelet. Both look pretty good here. Not sure about cost yet, likely ,000 - ,000 retail.


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Omega is the official timekeeper of the Olympics, now they have a collection of mainstream watches to tout this... chronographs, seven days and Olympic rings are involved.

The watch case is manufactured using aerospace grade titanium, fabricated entirely in Germany, utilizing modern advanced CNC technology. The unsurpassed superlative quality is evidently portrayed by the well defined, clean lines and perfectly finished edges throughout the case. Measuring a 44mm wide and 15mm thick, it adheres to a compromise between the demands of a traditional watch aficionados and the military man on his specialized job. Complying with the designation of a robust utility watch, we supplemented the case with a sturdy, precise, exact 60-click timing bezel, increased the water resistant to withstand a professional dive watch worthy 500metres and in excess, added an automatic Helium Release Valve (HEV) just in case the task ahead requires one to undergo saturation diving. A double O-ring 8mm screw down crown occupies the lower left hand corner for easy time adjustments. The surface is sealed with a 4mm thick blemish-free Swiss grade dome sapphire crystal that is treated with military grade anti-reflective coating for improved readability. On the opposite end, twin gaskets screw down solid caseback watertight the watch from the underside. The caseback engraving displays an artistic interpretation of turbulent spiral motion in a vortex.

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I love the dauphine hands on the dial. They are highly polished and faceted with lume in the center. The large hands are the proper size for the dial, and really complete the look. Plus, their high polish stands out making the watch quite legible. I suspect that the dial design is not something the Europeans would have made. It is a purely Asian style design, and I like that. Part of having a well-rounded watch collection is having items from all types of watches makers, coming from all types of cultures. This is the art side of watch making.

The dial on these watches is thematically taken from U-Boat Flightdeck watches. I placed an image of one for you to see what I mean. Jorg Gray doesn't copy it, but rather places their own touches to the overall look. The dial design is crisp and straight forward. You see hands and fonts taken from U-Boat, which means the smaller subsidiary hands are squared off, while the hour and minute hands are large and easy to read. The chronograph subdials are recessed a bit, while the date window edges are tastefully sloped in that is an important touch. As for the date window, I would have maybe preferred that the date disc be black, but it being white makes it stand out a bit more. Meaning that from a style perspective black would have been better, but it would make it hard to find the date on the dial as your eyes would be left searching for it.

The movement for the watch is the Richard Mille  Caliber RM 005-S. It is an automatic, has a power reserve of 55 hours (double barrels), adjustable geometry winding of the movement via the rotor, time and date, and made mostly of titanium and white gold with some PVD black coated surfaces. You might be curious as to what this "adjustable winding geometry" is all about. It is sort of gimmicky, and I am not totally sure who it is operated, but here is the idea. The automatic rotor can have an adjusted tension in terms of how much efforts is needed to turn it. Thus, you can wind the watch "properly" whether you are sitting at a desk or wildly swinging your arm while playing golf. I am not sure whether the movement detects it of if the user manually adjusts the winding geometry. Other watches with this complication rely on the user to manually change the settings.

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I  chose the particular hands for the watch that I did, because they are large, and because the hour hand is in a different shape than the minute hand - which assists with quick reading of the time (your brain doesn't need to spend as much time calculating which hand does what). I am glad that the hands are the proper size as well. The seconds hand sweeps nicely and has a lume covered section as well. You could have likely predicted that I enjoy the date window. Why? Not only do I like the symmetrical placement of the case in the lower middle of the dial, but also because DWATCH knew to use a matching color date disc - to compliment the dial. Also, I like how the date window is framed. The manner in which the date window was implemented retains that function (which I like to have), and also preserves the clean look of the dial. Thus, as the design of the dial might look obvious, I suspect there was a lot of tweaking that needed to be done - and as a lover of finely engineering items, I appreciate that in anything I own.

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The black color of the case and thick alligator leather strap make for an appealing an aggressive look. The lume on the hour markers and hands is a friendly canary yellow color. It is a soft touch to the watch,and allows the Hard Black II to be very legible. Linde Werdelin has currently been experimenting with many different types of colors, which might sound like they are just trying to extend one look as far as they can, but I am surprised at how dynamic the core Linde Werdelin watch case line is. Overall, this black and yellow scheme looks great on the Hard Black II as much as the DLC coating looks good on the Linde Werdelin "The One" watch base. One of the best luxury reminders of the watch is the even though the case is finished in a matte tone, the laser-cut hands and hour markers (around the lume) is highly polished which makes for a nice shimmery look. The dial is easy to read through the AR coated sapphire crystal. The case is water resistant to 300 meters (1000 feet).

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I like the screen and its layout. There is something 80s futuristic about it, or maybe I am just seeing things. Either way it is a nice look with the cool orange moon phase display. Which brings me to the many nice features that the G-Rescue watch has. It has a moon phase indicator, tide chart, two 1/100th of a second stopwatches, four alarms (with snooze and I think a flashing light), it is a world timer, a calendar, and the time of course (in 12 and 24 hour format). You can get the watch is three charming colors. I like them all frankly (even been getting interested in white watches as of late. They look fun). Black, white, and red toned are the options. The red version really looks like a fireman's watch. More so that other red watches. Price is very reasonable at each. Casio is probably one of the highest value digital watches out there.... which explains why they can sell them by the boat load. The Casio G-Rescue watches should be available soon.

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Apparently Parmigiani started selling watches that had warranty papers with Prooftag bubble patterns starting last June. The concept is great, and of course it is cool. Part of the problem however is that unless the Prooftag identifiers are directly on the watch itself, you still have the possibility of "funny business." It would be possible to incorporate the tags somewhere on the back of the watch or on the inner parts of the lugs. Now that would be impressive use of the technology and really a prevention of passing off fake watches as real ones.

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This is a European case that isn't applying US law. But let me give it to you as I understanding. After 5 years, and at least one appeal, Swiss watch maker F.P. Journe has been ordered to pay damages to Jaquet Droz and the Swatch Group (owner of Jaquet Droz) in the amount of tens of thousands of euros for infringement of Jaquet Droz's intellectual property rights for legal cost damages. It looks like Jaquet Droz was accused by FP Journe to have copied designs that FP Journe allegedly has created. This this would have been a copyright infringement case . Let me explain (not a hardcore legal discussion, don't worry).