Overall the new Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial GMT Chronograph watch is done well. A few areas I am not sold on such as the dial and the length of the hands. One other area is the bezel. Not that the bezel does not look nice, but I am not sure whether it fits the character of the rest of the watch. It looks very much like an instrument and less part of the "luxury boat lifestyle" that the dial is speaking to. Maybe I am the only one that sees it like that. I know that Omega is a brand that likes to focus on functionality, and that is good. I might possibly see the the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Chronograph a few times and change my mind, but those are my initial reactions. Not sure about price, I would guess ,000 - ,000 for the steel version with a 40-70% premium over that for the 18k red gold version.
The winder is set up to accept one watch in its leaning Tower of Pisa orientation. This helps optimize the rotation of the rotor in the watch when the winding compartment spins. Inserting a watch is simple. 1) remove the transparent plastic cap and pillow (make sure the winder is turned off). 2) close your watch over the pillow as you would on your wrist. 3) gently place the pillow back in the winder with the watch on it. 4) replace the plastic cap (to prevent dust), and turn the winder one. The winder is operated via a toggle switch with three setting (winding clockwise, counterclockwise, or off). You don't want to remove or place a watch in the winder if it is spinning because it will prevent the motor for operating and likely burn it out. Just something you have to remember.
Inside the watch is a ETA automatic 2824-2 movement visible through the sapphire caseback. A sapphire crystal is affixed to the top of the watch as well. The watch also features 200 meters of water resistance, and a screw rod for the strap as opposed to a spring bar. The crown of the Diavolo is also a high point. It is large and easy to operate, and features a luminous inlay with Marcello C.'s flying goose logo. Marcello C. has always been excellent when it comes to fit & finish, with a study weighty feel that feel put together well. . The Diavolo is a solid watch all around, and I am impressed by the unique choice of styling in the new version of the timepiece. Like I said, the price is on par with current market expectations and still represents a magic touch that leaves you wondering at how they can offer the watch at so low a price for what you get.
The more time I spend with innovative independent watch makers, the most I find myself being drawn to that world. Nubeo is one of my newest favorites because founder Ivan Castro is first a jewelry man, second a watch maker. The sentiment translates into a totally unique interpretation into watch design as well as construction ethic. He is a humble guy, but has a no tolerance attitude for deviations from his strict concepts of quality in both aesthetic and construction. These are a few watches from one of his first lines of watches, the Jellyfish. There is also the Black Jellyfish, and Medusse (which is the women's line). Then for the ceramic built versions, they are called the Keramik watches. All of these are based on the same type of design. The Jellyfish looks comes out best when you turn the watch on its side and look at the outline shape. Looks like the profile of a jellyfish right? All Nubeo watches has this theme of "organic" influence, and it works really well for the brand.
In particular I like how the crown is not actually pulled out much, but has a fold-out flap that allows for adjustment and manual winding (if necessary). This is done to allow for the crown to be flush with the case. The look is very uniform and instead of just looking like an instrument watch, the whole design has a very technical feel. Watching the turbine in action is a high point, and I think I would sit there and shake my arm around just to see the automatic movement winding itself. Overall, this is going to be one of Perrelet’s flagship designs of 2009 and 2010, and will be available in about October.