Overall this is a watch for the devoted connoisseur. The lack of branding or bling combined with the steep cost add up to something that only a few will appreciate. It's a realization of a singular vision of timekeeping, done with unique aesthetics and cost-is-no-problem construction. I will be sorry to see it go.
Luckily, none of us are interested in the watch for the wallet. The timepiece is beautiful. Its bold face and understated styling permit it to fly under the social radar, and it's only commented upon by the most careful observer - if you want to be noticed wearing the watch, you really need to flaunt it. Compared to many other watches in my collection, it's shockingly light, and I often forget that I'm wearing it when switching to it from a heavier piece. Only when it peeks out from beneath my cuff am I reminded of it, and I can't help but stare. The flash of color as the second-hand sweeps by makes me think of the green glass and liner I know are hidden beneath the band, and I grin whenever I see it. The wide face is clear and easy to read, though difficult to pull away from.
Tiret told me that there are two sizes for the Gotham watch. I tried them both on. I think one is either 42-43mm wide and the other larger one is 45mm wide or more. I don't recall the exact figures. I preferred the larger case of course - imagine that. It is a tall watch as you can tell, with a steeply protruding look that will not get old fast. Despite the size the way the design wraps around your wrist is impressive. It is a very comfortable watch on your wrist provided you don't smack it into things (or people).
You'll either love or hate this watch over all. For me I think it is a fun piece in a wild over-the-top flamboyant Italian sort of way. Speaking of love or hate, I am not sure how I feel about the very prominent power reserve indicator - though it is interesting. Adriano Valente claims that the caliber Engine-001A automatic movement is built by them entirely from scratch. I can pretty much say that as a new brand this isn't possible. It does however look as though they have a unique movement plate and style produced for them. The chances that they produce all the little movement parts themselves are next to none. The movement is an automatic and has a jumping big date indicator, time, and power reserve indicator. You can order the caseback of the watch to be partially open or totally closed. How do you feel about the middle of the dial that is meant to look like the hex grill air intakes on the front of cars such as the Murcielago? Kinda cool.
The TAG Heuer LINK seriously upgrades the way the world connects.
The context of the event being in the Napa Valley was to connect the world of watches with the world of wine. I felt that this was a logical as well as interesting move by Lange. They don't sponsor any wineries or have official events here, though I've never been to a watch event that didn't have good wine being served. Timepiece makers tend to like to keep the conversation on watches, but Lange's people were more than happy to focus on the item of the area - the vino. That was great. They even taught us about German influences on wine making in the Napa Valley region. More interesting was the education on wine production itself. Similar to watches, the luxury is all in the details, and nothing wonderful can be mass produced. That and a good watch - like a good wine - can take a long time to develop and produce.
Fan of high-end quartz watches? Breitling has a nice new piece for you. What is high-end quartz? Well not cheap quartz! The perception that all quartz watches are cheap is a bit of a shame. It is true that you can buy a quartz movement based watch for a few bucks, but high-end quartz watches are out there - and they have their fan following for sure. Breitling is one of the few Swiss brands that continually offers high-end Swiss quartz movement based timepieces in addition to mechanical watches (and not just in women's pieces).
The watch case is steel, but the back of it is DLC black coated steel. There you will also find the unique serial number of the watch. It is also where the watch sits when you are charging it. The crystal is polycarbonate - the same material used for bullet-proof glass. It is also AR coated for clarity. Inside the watch is a complex assortment of microstep motors, belts, and a processor. It is a quartz regulation based device, and according to Devon it is thermo-compensated which means it should be more accurate. The processor controls the functions and all the small motors. Rather than have a crown, the watch has a controller. You sort of operate it like a crown though, and is placed at the bottom parts of the case.
A connoisseur has passion and curiosity. He or she wants to understand all about the things that they love, why they are lovable, which are the most lovable, and how they may be able to love them even more. Connoisseurs take a hobby and turn them into almost an addiction. Connoisseur's are a bit weird, and most of you reading this (myself included) proudly boast that this adjective applies to you fittingly.
18k gold often has a little "750" stamped in it. This number indicates the percentage of actual gold per 1000 parts in the material. For gold to be 18k it must be 750 parts per 1000 as I understand it. It is logical to ask whether or not magic gold meets this number or is less given the ceramic compounds. According to Hublot, Magic Gold has the same 750 parts per 1000 of gold as 18k gold - thus making it at least as valuable at 18k gold (with the the scratch resistance).
When I first saw this Piaget watch almost a year ago it was safely put away behind glass, teasing me with its 'no-so-thin' charms. At 43mm wide and just 5.25mm thick, this is a dream come true for people who want a stately looking watch in diameter, but also one that offers an extremely thin profile on the wrist. So thin in fact, that this watch holds the record for being the thinnest automatic watch in the world.
Read more about the Mystery of Time clock in my full article on James List here.
PH: I was curious about the Settimana Junior. Does it sell well? Who buys it?
The Type XXII watch has some very cool things about it, both visually and technically. Of interest is the very high beat movement that operates at 72,000 vph (vibrations per hour). This is very, very fast. Most nice movements operated at about 28,000, and the Zenith El Primero goes at about 36,000. So up to 72,000 (10 hertz) is a major step up. This means that the chronograph for example can be used to measure very small fractions of a second. It is so fast, that the chronograph seconds hand rotates the entire dial in just 30 seconds. Breguet says this allows the watch to measure time with "twice the precision." Which is another discussion unto itself, but you can measure up to 1/20 of a second precision with this baby. Though really, if you want that much precision when timing with a watch, get yourself a quartz Casio.
The movement also holds a record for being the thinnest automatic movement (thinnest automatic watch case + thinnest automatic movement). Inside is the Piaget made and designed calibre 1208p - and it is a sexy little wafer. I first wrote about the Piaget Altiplano 43 Automatic watch here.