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Van Cleef & Arpels probably makes the world's most beautiful watches... that I would not wear.  Of course they have plenty of watches I would strap on in a heartbeat, but they are just too nice. Too much work goes into making this art. Plus, many of them are for women. I wouldn't want to even risk a cosmetic interruption. If I had the money I would get them to sit in cool little displays on my desk to appreciate what watch dial art is really all about.

The main idea of the Colosimo is to look like a small safe. It has a safe-style door that opens up to reveal the winding drum. The drum has been redone here to offer space for three watches. The second gen Colosimo dimensions are 21cm x 21cm x 20cm. It is almost a perfect square and about 7 centimeters smaller than the original. It also weighs a lot less. Dottling wanted the original Colosimo to really feel like a safe - so that made it quite heavy. The new version is 14kg in weight (down from 30kg).

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Inside the watch looks to be a base Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 movement. Bremont seems to use a special module that turns the subsidiary seconds and date indicators into retrograde hands. The result is a wonderfully symmetrical and balanced dial that feels fresh and new despite the intentionally "old" looking dial design. The retrograde seconds dial jumps back to its original position after each 30 seconds (as opposed to after each 60 seconds). I really like the decorative effects in the retrograde dials.

The AC01 watches each come in a few style choices. The AC01 Version 2 for example currently comes with a red or yellow tinted dial. The Version 1 comes with different case finishes and some sections of the case available in black. On the models I got to see, the Version 1 watches have more technical textile straps, while the Version 2 models have nice alligator straps. My choice? To have the Arcadia AC01 Version 1 with the strap from the Version 2. Overall, these are pretty well made and very unique watches that will surely have a polarizing reaction from watch lovers. Prices are 9,795 Euros (7,995 British Pounds)

BUBEN & ZORWEG One Perpetual Calendar Watch

BUBEN & ZORWEG One Perpetual Calendar Watch

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Ever since Ralph Lauren Watches debuted the Sporting watch as part of their original collection (a few years ago) I was a fan of the sport watch that seemed to mix classic elegance and sporty looks together so well. Resolute to become more than just another high-end sports watch, Ralph Lauren has pushed the Sporting into some interesting directions over its short lifespan. For 2012 there are three new Sporting models that are simply "cool."

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I've yet to need the backlight at night, actually. Note the unusual numbering on the inner bezel - the reverse triangles have 24-hour numbering, but the other numbers are minutes:

The case is in typical Edifice form and actually wears smaller than its over 47mm wide width would suggest. The case is water resistant to 100 meters and is black IP coated steel. The case appears to have four pushers and a crown, but the crown is actually used to move the inner rotating bezel - which is basically the same as a inner rotating diver's bezel. That was a neat addition to the piece that was less than expected. Casio attempts to label the buttons for ease of use but they are used to do different things in different modes. The dial has seven hands and a date indicator window. Once again, the hands are used to do different things in different modes - which is the key to understanding how this watch is able to do so much. On the default "screen," the watch shows you the time, 24 hour time or second time zone, date, and day of the week. I highly suggest just leaving it at that.

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The dials themselves are very well-done for what RJ is going for. Romain Jerome was able to create a three-dimensional display that looks as though it was built out of pixel layers. The characters/sprites on the dial are colored with a special lacquer. Nothing feels flat, and given what Romain Jerome wanted to do with the dial and the Space Invaders' theme, I think they did a good job. Reading the time via the hands is fine, but there are no discernible hour markers to help out.

Pictured, the Chapter Three Reveal watch is in an 18k rose gold case with a blue/black dial and black alligator strap. While this might be the only version for 2012, other color variations and material choices are sure to come. Fans of independent watch makers and those who enjoy high-end classically styled high-complication watches will certainly be into the Chapter Three this year.

At launch there will be many Ball BMW watches available, with one being a limited edition. Pictured in this article are just a few. Most of the watches use base Swiss ETA mechanical automatic movements with a range of basic features in addition to the time. You can see models here with a power reserve indicator for example. There will also be a GMT model and others in addition to a basic three-hand model. The limited edition version (of 1000 pieces) will feature Ball's special "TMT" mechanical thermometer module that it has used on some other watches in the past.

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Dive watch purists will complain about the lack of rotating bezel. I agree, it would have been nice to have one given how common they are on diver's watches - especially since the original Oktopus had one. Linde Werdelin however simply wanted to be different. They said "screw it" we are gonna make a dive watch without a rotating bezel... and they did.

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The movement is a classic, introduced in 1971 and used in the Blancpain 7002, Omega 651, Nomos Tangente, and many other watches out there. The 7001 has a 42 hour power reserve and is only 2.5mm thick. The movement, designed in an era of smaller watches, is narrower than the case so there's a gap between the edge of the sub seconds dial and the outer dial. That sticks out to me a bit, but otherwise I quite like the design.

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