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While all 12 of the original C3H5N3O9 Experiment ZR012 watches were sold at a collection of MB&F and Urwerk retailers around the world, the Experiment ZR012 Black will be exclusively available at The Hour Glass: a premier retailer in Singapore. This isn't the first time The Hour Glass has received exclusive limited edition watches, and it is really impressive how the city-state has such a strong collection of open-minded high-end watch collectors. That The Hour Glass wanted this to be exclusive to them is a sure sign of that.
Upset I am not, but it does make for an interesting observation. I have a feeling that in the future, the HM4 will be one of the more highly sought after and collectible of the Horological Machines because it is unique even among unique watches given how everything, and I mean everything about it was ultra-custom. Another unique part of the HM4 collection was that it was never technically a limited edition - at least not by name. MB&F said they would make a certain amount each year. However, they did say that they would only make a certain amount of HM4 movements (100 of them). What does that mean? Well basically that each model was technically a limited edition, but that at launch they had no idea what all of those models would be. They promised 100 movements to play around with and that was it.
So I think that subconsciously, I made a value call a little while ago. I would be more diplomatic with the brands in exchange for increased access to ensure aBlogtoWatch readers received as good content as possible. It is probably the case that the editorial "severity" has since decreased. I miss it though, and I continue to find ways to say whatever the hell it is I want, while ensuring that I don't stab myself in the foot. I've never actually considered the advertising sale side in the tone of my writing. It is probably silly not to, but access to watches was probably more my goal. To those readers who sometimes feel disappointed by the absence of expletives when you know I probably want to include them, I feel for you. As I mentioned above, the toning down of my critiques was not actually intentional. Now that I've fully realized what has happened, I do need to find a clever way of inserting as much of it back in as possible, without great disturbance to the often delicate relationships we have with watch makers.
Proprietary movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon/ Chronode
Number of components: 405
Number of jewels: 46
Balance frequency: 4 Hz
Dual anaerobic capsules measuring air pressure
Spiral anti-vibration spring: LIGA by Mimotech
Power reserve: 65 hours
Glashutte Original Senator Panorama Date Watch
11 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Glashutte Original Senator Panorama Date Watch
The brand new Emergency II watch adds new features and at the same time takes away the perceived weaknesses of the original. You see, the original Emergency had a 121.5MHz transmitter that, when activated, had a range of 90 nautical miles (167 km) by search aircraft flying at 20,000 feet (6,000 m). This was assuming normal conditions, or basically flat terrain or calm seas. If you found yourself outside such conditions, then the range would be considerably shorter.
In thinking about zombie survival, you have to move a few notches down Maslow's hierarchy of needs and think more basic. What will you need to strictly survive? Food, water, a safe place to sleep, that sort of thing. The addition of zombies means that attention must be paid to daylight and perhaps night light available thanks to the moon, as well as the seasons of course. Similar to a hunting scenario, but we aren't sure who is being hunted in this instance.
Back to mechanical watches, the first automatic alarm, the classic Jaeger LeCoultre Memovox is still available for very little money and if you can stand the watch minus the Jaeger on the dial, the US LeCoultre models can be bought for even less. The first of the high-beat movements, (the last hurrah before quartz), offer great watchmaking at a reasonable price. Girard Perregaux was the first but the Longines Ultra Chron is a good alternative. A quirky but valid choice would be the first mechanical watch with a plastic movement, the Tissot Idea 2001 or Astrolon. A commercial disaster at the time, these were seen as disposable and so are now rare but not expensive to buy.
While agate rock may not be that uncommon, watches with hand-carved agate dials are. It is one of those interesting artistic skills that brands like Cartier like to make use of from time to time when impressing a very limited audience. As such, the Rotonde de Cartier Flying Tourbillon Crocodile Motif watch will be in the hands (I mean on the wrist) of no more than 30 people total. I do wonder if it is the same group of people eagerly awaiting the new Cartier art pieces each year, or if Cartier is able to expand the market for these interesting niche luxury pieces.
Considering that people were buying watches to go with their outfits, clothing companies started to offer their own watches. This seems to have mostly started in the 1980s when it became very cheap to mass-produce watches in Asia. Today, most larger fashion labels have some manner of watches to sell. Though the reality is, the quality and respectability of these watches can vary dramatically. And there really isn't a clear correlation between the value of the brand and the value of their watches.
A watch complication can be loosely defined as any function of the watch that goes beyond the display of hours, minutes and seconds. Personally, I think that complications are what make watches so interesting. To be able to time the passage of time or another time in another country using moving mechanical parts is, to me at least, fascinating.
Visually, Chinese tourbillons aren't quite there yet with Swiss variants in terms of finishing quality or beauty. However, they are getting better. The normal customer probably couldn't tell. I can, but I am hardly the normal customer (as I need to keep reminding myself). The question for the market is simple. Is perfect polish and craftsmanship worth many thousands of percent more in price? For the world's top connoisseurs it is, and I don't blame them. However, good quality Chinese tourbillon brands like Memorigin have democratized the tourbillon to the extent that it is an achievable luxury opposed to something most people could never fathom to afford. That is an important point for an industry long marked by catering to the elite while marketing to the masses.
On that note, the dial is not pure white like a Rolex Explorer II, nor is it as creamy as the color shown on Bremont's website. The dial is most definitely white but it exhibits a warmer silver tone that can be seen in daylight or the light of an incandescent bulb. I love the type of white they chose for the Solo as it has more depth than a crisp flat white but almost none of the cream or dull pinkish tones seen in other off-white dials. Bravo Bremont.
His comment about producing movements that may have been seen, but not in the same configuration, reminded me of a quote of his: “In watchmaking, everything has been done; yet everything has yet to be invented.” I wondered what he meant by that, and if it related to his own work specifically?
Bell & Ross watches were originally dual-branded Sinn timepieces that the founders of Bell & Ross felt could do very well in the larger fashion and luxury market as opposed to simply the dedicated professional watch market. German Sinn watches to this day is mostly setup as a direct-to-consumer tool watch brand producing some of the finest durable and professional use mechanical watches around. At that time in the 1990s, you basically needed to be in that world to even know about Sinn, as finding them in retailers was rare - especially outside of Europe. So Bell & Ross made a business model out of selling Sinn in places it had never before been.
Other than vintage watches, I love haute horlogerie, although my tastes are almost divided. If I could magically own one haute piece, the designer in me would want an Urwerk, while the craftsman in me would want an Roger Smith... Quite polar opposites in terms of aesthetic!